Manual repair screw compressor (cooling) wrv-163 howden 204 manual howden wrv 163 204 255 compiled pdf, doc, ppt endura em945g motherboard manual howden 204 manual pdf Related oxygen: Jcb 4cx Loader Operator Manual, Eu3000 Parts Manual, Manual For 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Rt, Prophecy Exam Study Guide For Nurses, Bosch Dryer Repair Manual.
Description / remarks: Used and in very well maintained condition: low pressure (booster) Howden screw package, compressor type WRV321-193-36, equipped with the following main components: Stanref oil separator, Stanref oil cooler (thermo syphon), oil pump, ABB 315 E-motor. Mentioned cooling capacity is at an evaporating temperature of -40°C and -10°C condensing temperature. This unit can also be delivered with a WRV 255/165 compressor, then the cooling capacity will be 451kW at -40°C /+35°C with eco, absorbed power 312kW.
Hi friends, does anybody know what size and length bolts are needed to push of the bearings from the screws, any help would be great full, thankyou Assume you are talking about thrust bearings? Not a 100% sure, but 16mm x approx 200mm long. Each thrust bearing about 25mm wide x 2 off them If going on site take 12,16 & 20 mm threaded rod & nuts. Are you replacing thrust bearings only, or removing rotors as well?
I have found on the few 204 I have done that jacking holes are part of balance piston sleeve, which when you jack the bearings of there is possibility of distorting the sleeve. This may then give you different end clearances. I would normally jack rotors out towards inlet end after removing inlet cover/housing.
Assume you are talking about thrust bearings? Not a 100% sure, but 16mm x approx 200mm long.
Each thrust bearing about 25mm wide x 2 off them If going on site take 12,16 & 20 mm threaded rod & nuts. Are you replacing thrust bearings only, or removing rotors as well? I have found on the few 204 I have done that jacking holes are part of balance piston sleeve, which when you jack the bearings of there is possibility of distorting the sleeve. This may then give you different end clearances. I would normally jack rotors out towards inlet end after removing inlet cover/housing.
Tiny correction, the jacking holes are not on the balance piston, they are on the end clearance shim, so you have to be all the more careful if you use them to jack the bearings out. On the MK6 it should be new enough for all threads to be millimeter, the jacking screw should go in easily without force, if you encounter abnormal resistance, try with a 5/8 threaded bar instead and see if it goes easier. The thrust bearings are not hard to jack out on a WRV, I use two ratchets, one on each of the jacking rods so that I can assert even pressure on both jacking rods. The bearings should come of easily, if you have to use force, something is wrong and I would consider using a central jacking screw instead.:). Tiny correction, the jacking holes are not on the balance piston, they are on the end clearance shim, so you have to be all the more careful if you use them to jack the bearings out. On the MK6 it should be new enough for all threads to be millimeter, the jacking screw should go in easily without force, if you encounter abnormal resistance, try with a 5/8 threaded bar instead and see if it goes easier. The thrust bearings are not hard to jack out on a WRV, I use two ratchets, one on each of the jacking rods so that I can assert even pressure on both jacking rods.
The bearings should come of easily, if you have to use force, something is wrong and I would consider using a central jacking screw instead.:) Tyco, I wrote 'balance piston sleeve':)which has 2 lugs. I have only done a few that size, but have found the lugs slightly bent with the pressure applied to the 'ears or lugs'.
I see it as average design as older models were same as larger WRV. Have used a dummy set of thrusts with inner race opened up a bit so as slip fit. Once ok then install the new bearings in hope the clearance is ok. Tyco, I wrote 'balance piston sleeve':)which has 2 lugs. I have only done a few that size, but have found the lugs slightly bent with the pressure applied to the 'ears or lugs'. I see it as average design as older models were same as larger WRV. Have used a dummy set of thrusts with inner race opened up a bit so as slip fit.
Once ok then install the new bearings in hope the clearance is ok. Sorry Ranger1, I missed the sleeve part when I wrote my reply (my bad) I've done quite a few of these and have (knock on wood) never bent any of the shims/sleeves.
The trick is to use two ratchets and apply even pressure to both at the same time, the moment you have to use force to get the thrust bearings out, something is wrong, they should only be heated to 20K above ambient before installation. I have witnessed people jacking then out buy working on one jacking screw until it gets stuck, then moving to the other jacking screw, rinse and repeat. They were from a competing company and I was doing the refrigerant pumps or some other stuff, so I kept my mouth shut:) we have a plane table where we check the shim/sleeve on after we get it out.
I really like working on Howden Compressors, they are well machined and if you take care of them they will last forever. I do however hate overhauling the XRV127 with any kind of gearbox on it. XRV127 with a gearbox means dismantling it at least 4 times to get the end-play correct. No worries Tyco, Good tip on jacking out bearings. I have only done a few of WRV204 with that arrangement & found both damaged prior to me touching it because of that. I always tend to push rotor out with these like 255 & 321 Have done the old type WRV204 which are better for adjusting end clearance.
Mae do have trouble with Howden on the newer ground rotors though, rotors appear very sensitive & mash themselves up, reason unknown? I haven't seen any rotor damage on the WRV range. But on the XRV range, where they don't have the slide valve guide block, jezzus. When they are on a VFD.shudder.
what we call 'slide valve noise'. 2400 rpm, as the slide valve is moving, at around 40-60% it sounds like someone threw a bucket of scrap metal into the suction. Howden says it's the slide valve vibrating, IE rolling from side to side and touching the rotors. On older models the wear would be on the rotors, but lately I have seen that all the wear was on the slide valve. I opened an XRV127 3 days ago and the surface of the slide valve was worn down 2mm I don't get why they don't implement a guide for the slide valve on the XRV range.
I haven't seen any rotor damage on the WRV range. But on the XRV range, where they don't have the slide valve guide block, jezzus. When they are on a VFD.shudder. what we call 'slide valve noise'.
2400 rpm, as the slide valve is moving, at around 40-60% it sounds like someone threw a bucket of scrap metal into the suction. Howden says it's the slide valve vibrating, IE rolling from side to side and touching the rotors. On older models the wear would be on the rotors, but lately I have seen that all the wear was on the slide valve. I opened an XRV127 3 days ago and the surface of the slide valve was worn down 2mm I don't get why they don't implement a guide for the slide valve on the XRV range just a guess, but I thinks it's to do with money!